Amritsar, Golden domes and spicy papad city

Amritsar remains a city of tumultuous bazaars, of all modes of transport nearly missing all kinds of pedestrians, of stray dogs and placidly wandering cows, which seems same as told by my grandmother when I was small. Those who love Amritsar for them Golden temple has overtaken the Taj Mahal to become India’s most – visited monument. At heart’s it’s still the dera of Guru Ram Dass. It’s soul the incomparable Golden Temple, has desecrated and damaged countless time over centuries. Afghans and Mughals sacked the holy city several times, the Sikhs squabbled over it amongst themselves, it bears the scars of the violence of partition, the atrocities of Jallianwala Bagh and operation bluestar bears the scars. Yet each time the city has rebuilt its shrine and itself with unshakeable determination.

As the GT Road eases into the urban sprawl of Amritsar, the first tell tale sign is a rapid build up of traffic. Then concrete boxes replace the green fields. The faith of Harmandir commands continues to dominate the spirit of Amritsar, resulting in an overwhelming atmosphere of devotion. Make your parikrama of the Harmandir Sahib or Darbar Sahib around the golden temple, partake of the langar and move on reassured of the brotherhood of humanity that is this gurudwara greatest gift to all comers. Wash your feet and climb up the marble steps. As you climb down again towards the centre of the complex, the Golden temple is revealed to you in all its glory. The shining façade of this graceful gurudwara is accentuated not only by hundreds lights but by the faith and devotion it commands from its followers, many of whom are not even of the Sikh faith.

The Harmandir Sahib consists of two large shrines and many smaller subsidiary shrines. All set around a large tank known as the Lake of Nectar. The complex is a sea of white marble, trimmed with eye- catching features picked out in gold leaf and fine stone inlay. The airwaves are dominated by the sweet sounds of gurbani, the Sikhs hymns. Bathing in the Amrit Sarovar is of course an ancient tradition. The water is believed to have healing powers and so draws the sick and the ailing from all faiths. Bring a towel along if you want to go in for a dip. There is walled off portion where woman may bath.

The streets around the complex are dotted with many gurudwaras and spots of historical interest. The temple is situated in the oldest area of the city, abutted by ancient, crowded bazaars dotted with elderly historical buildings. The Gurudwara Baba atal and the Gurudwara Mata Kaulan are both within walking distance if the Harmandir as is the Guru Ke Mahal where the Guru’s lived when Golden Temple was under construction. Also nearby is the charming Gurudwara Saragarhi sahib.

Jallianwala Bagh is small clearing outside the Old city, is lined on every side by buildings outside a high, unbroken wall. It is very easy to miss the single small entrance to the spot where on April 13, 1919, a crowd filed through this same narrow alley to hear a nationalist speech or two. However Brigadier General Reginald Dyer decided to break up the assembly. He blocked the alley with armored cars and ordered his troops to open fire on the peaceful, unarmed crowd. Over 300 people, including children, died and closed to a thousand were injured. Now its landscaped garden with a museum run by the Jallianwala Bagh Trust. It’s favorite with children, who play hide- and- seek in its hedges. The well has been bricked up, trees planted where the corpses lay. The original boundary walls have also been preserved, complete with the dents circled in white paint and labeled bullet mark.

The markets of the Old city are much more exotic than the main shopping areas of the New City. The Hall Bazaar in the purana shehr and the areas surroundings the Kotwali are vast and traditional shopping areas. Their pickles and papad are famous. The bazaar outside Darbara Sahib is the place where you will found stainless steel cutlery and consecrated weaponry.

Amritsar offers many hotel accommodations from basic to the higher category like MK Hotel, Ritz Plaza, Mohan International Hotel and many more.